There’s something about returning to a place you’ve already explored that makes you appreciate it in a whole new way. This was our second winter in the Sea of Cortez, and this time around, we made a conscious decision to slow things down. No rushing from one destination to the next, no feeling like we had to see it all. Just sailing, exploring, diving, and enjoying life aboard Ramble On.
And honestly? That turned out to be exactly what we needed.
Winter in the Sea of Cortez means north winds. While those winds can make life a little uncomfortable if you’re trying to head north, they’re perfect for sailing south. So, we took advantage of the season and spent most of our winter exploring the southern Sea of Cortez.
We worked our way from San Evaristo down to the many beautiful anchorages scattered around Isla Partida and Isla Espíritu Santo. If there’s one thing this area has in abundance, it’s places to drop the hook. Around almost every corner, there seems to be another little bay, cove, or stretch of beach where you can tuck yourself away and enjoy a few quiet days.
One of the best things about cruising this part of the Sea is the number of anchorages that offer excellent protection from the prevailing northerly winds. You can find a comfortable spot, settle in, and let the days unfold without constantly thinking about where you need to go next.
Of course, living on a boat means the wind doesn’t always cooperate with your plans. When the Coromuel winds arrive, blowing from the west, we head over to El Portico anchorage, just across the inlet from Isla Partida. It’s a handy place to escape those westerlies and wait for conditions to settle down. After all, one of the biggest lessons in cruising is that sometimes the best thing you can do is move a few miles, drop the anchor, and stay put.
Even when you’re trying to escape the hustle and bustle, eventually the boat needs groceries, fresh supplies, and all those little things that are difficult to find in a secluded anchorage.
That meant making a trip into La Paz for provisioning. We decided to rent a car for one day and make a trip to Costco in Cabo San Lucas. Along the way we stopped at Agricole.
Agricole’s Cocina de Campo is a wonderful farm-to-table destination in El Pescadero, just west of Todos Santos along the highway toward Cabo San Lucas. Set among lush gardens and working farmland, the restaurant focuses on fresh, seasonal ingredients grown on-site. The menu that blends Mexican flavors with a California-inspired twist. From fresh seafood and handmade tortillas to wood-fired pizza and creative cocktails. It’s a place where the food and setting are equally appealing.
There’s also a farm shop next door where you can pick up fresh produce, baked goods, and local specialties. Agricole has even earned recognition in the MICHELIN Guide, making it well worth a stop if you’re exploring this stretch of Baja.
We spent a few days in La Paz stocking up before heading back out to the islands. La Paz is a great resource for cruisers, but after a few days in town, we were happy to return to the quieter rhythm of life at anchor.
There’s something satisfying about getting everything aboard, leaving the city behind, and knowing you won’t have to think about provisioning again for a while. Well, at least until we run out of something important!
With our winter plans intentionally loose, our days settled into a comfortable routine. We spent time hiking ashore, exploring the rugged landscape, and taking in the incredible views that make this part of Mexico so special.
We met new friends along the way and reconnected with old ones. One of the unexpected pleasures of cruising is how often you cross paths with familiar faces. Boats come and go, routes overlap, and before long, a quiet anchorage becomes a little floating neighborhood. Some days are spent exploring together, while others involve nothing more than visiting aboard another boat and catching up on everyone’s latest adventures.
And then, of course, there was diving.
The waters around Isla Partida and Isla Espíritu Santo are a huge part of what makes this area so appealing to us. Whenever conditions allowed, we took the opportunity to get underwater and explore. There’s always something worth looking at beneath the surface. Spending time in the water is one of our favorite ways to experience the Sea of Cortez.
Between the hikes, dives, good company, and beautiful anchorages, we never felt the need to fill every day with an activity. Some days were busy, some were wonderfully lazy, and some were a little of both. That’s the beauty of cruising when you give yourself permission to slow down.
Winter also brings humpback whales to the Sea of Cortez. These magnificent animals migrate into the region, and the possibility of spotting one always adds a little excitement to a day on the water.
The tricky part? Actually finding them.
Despite spending so much time out here, sightings can be few and far between. You might spend hours scanning the horizon without seeing a thing, then suddenly find yourself wondering if that distant splash was a whale or just another patch of white water. We kept our eyes open whenever we were underway, hoping for one of those unforgettable encounters.
That’s one of the funny things about wildlife watching. You can spend all your time looking for something and never see it, while the most memorable encounters often happen when you least expect them. The whales remained elusive for much of our winter, with one exceptional sighting while anchored in Ensenada Grande.
Our second winter in the Sea of Cortez reminded us that cruising isn’t always about covering miles or checking destinations off a list. Sometimes it’s about finding a place you love and staying long enough to really enjoy it.
We had the freedom to follow the weather, choose our favorite anchorages, spend time with friends, and enjoy the things that make this lifestyle so rewarding. We didn’t need a packed itinerary or a new destination every few days. We just needed a comfortable anchorage, a boat that felt like home, and the freedom to decide what the next day would bring.
The southern Sea of Cortez gave us all of that and more.
As we look back on another winter aboard Ramble On, we’re reminded how fortunate we are to have the opportunity to explore these beautiful islands at our own pace. There will always be somewhere else to go and something else to see, but this winter taught us that there’s just as much value in slowing down and enjoying where you already are.
And if that means spending a few extra days in a favorite anchorage, going for one more dive, or sitting in the cockpit watching the light change over the islands, we’re perfectly happy with that.
After all, we’re not in a hurry. That’s kind of the whole point.
