Spring in the Sea of Cortez means one thing for us: it’s time to start working our way north for the summer. Of course, sailing plans in Baja are always subject to the wind, so our first stop wasn’t exactly the relaxing start we’d hoped for. But between beautiful anchorages, old friends, a historic mission, playful dolphins, and two weeks of diving and beach dinners, we managed to make the most of it.
Our first stop was Los Gatos, an anchorage between San Evaristo and Agua Verde. We planned to wait out some north wind there, which turned out to be a questionable decision. Los Gatos isn’t particularly well protected from the north, and we spent four days getting rolled around by the swell.
Four days is a long time to be reminded that a sailboat can move in every direction except the one you want it to.
Still, Los Gatos has something that makes it stand out from most of the other anchorages in this part of Baja: its spectacular red rock formations. The shoreline is covered with reddish sandstone, sculpted into unusual shapes by wind, water, and erosion. The rusty reds and oranges contrast beautifully with the deep blue Sea of Cortez, making the landscape look almost otherworldly. It’s a striking change from the more typical granite cliffs, gray volcanic rock, and desert-colored hills we see throughout the region.
We appreciated the scenery, even if we weren’t particularly fond of the motion. After four rolly days, we were ready to move on.
From Los Gatos, we made the short trip north to Agua Verde. This time, we managed to find a spot in the little cove to the west, where we could tuck in out of the swell. What a difference a little protection makes!
We ended up spending almost two weeks there, which is one of the great things about cruising Baja. When you find a comfortable anchorage with good company and plenty to do, there’s no reason to rush off.
Agua Verde means “green water” in Spanish, and it’s easy to understand how the place got its name. The water in the protected coves can be an almost impossibly clear shade of turquoise and teal, especially over the sandy bottom. With the rugged desert hills behind us and that brilliant water all around, it was a beautiful place to settle in for a while.
We spent our days paddleboarding, hiking with friends, and doing the usual assortment of boat chores that somehow never seem to end. We even tackled cleaning the bottom of the boat. Glamorous cruising life, right?
I also finally got around to sewing a canvas connector panel between our dodger and bimini. It’s one of those projects that sounds simple until you start working with a large piece of canvas aboard a moving boat. But it felt good to get it done, and hopefully we’ll appreciate the extra shade and protection as we head farther north.
There are restaurants right on the beach at Agua Verde, and we made a few visits. Beach dinners with friends are one of our favorite parts of cruising. We ate, talked, and played plenty of Farkle, the dice game that can turn an otherwise peaceful evening into a highly competitive event. Apparently, a little friendly rivalry is good for the soul.
One of the highlights was reuniting with our friends Pat and Lisa aboard Sol Mate. We hadn’t seen them in a year, so there was a lot of catching up to do. Between the hiking, paddle boarding, meals ashore, and evenings together, the days slipped by quickly.
Agua Verde was exactly what we’d hoped for: beautiful water, a comfortable place to anchor, and good friends to share it with.
Eventually, it was time to continue north. The trip from Agua Verde to Puerto Escondido was a short one, and we arrived ready for a change of scenery.
For the first time, we picked up a mooring in Puerto Escondido’s lagoon. We’d visited the area before, but this was our first time staying on a mooring inside the protected harbor. It’s a convenient base for exploring the region, especially when we want to get ashore and venture farther inland.
Our friends on Beluga continued on to Loreto, but another familiar boat was waiting for us at the marina. Jeff and Tracy aboard Great Adventure happened to be in a slip.
We first met them at San Francisquito, where Jeff broke his leg while hiking. What started as a hike turned into a serious emergency, and we ended up helping with his rescue. It was one of those experiences that reminds you just how important it is to look out for one another out here. You never know when a normal day ashore might turn into something much more complicated.
With Beluga nearby in Loreto, we decided to rent a car at the marina, pick up Lyn and Ty, and head into the mountains to visit the San Javier Mission.
The drive to San Javier took us away from the Sea of Cortez and up into the rugged Sierra de la Giganta. The scenery alone made the trip worthwhile, with winding mountain roads, rocky canyons, and a surprising amount of green vegetation in places where water collects.
The destination was the Misión San Francisco Javier de Viggé-Biaundó, one of the best-preserved historic mission churches on the Baja California peninsula.
The mission was established by Jesuit missionary Francisco María Piccolo in 1699, making it one of the earliest permanent mission settlements in Baja California. It was later reestablished at its present location, where Father Juan de Ugarte developed agriculture using irrigation channels and water-storage ponds. The stone church that stands today was begun in 1744 under the Jesuit missionary Miguel del Barco and completed around 1758–1759.
The name Viggé-Biaundó comes from the language of the Indigenous Cochimí people and is generally translated as something like “high land in the heights of the canyons.”
The church is often called the jewel of the Baja missions, and it’s easy to see why. Its sturdy stone construction, understated exterior, and beautifully decorated interior make it a remarkable sight in such a remote mountain setting. The carved and gilded altar is especially impressive.
After spending so much time exploring Baja from the water, it was fun to see another side of the peninsula and learn a little more about its history. The mission is a reminder that Baja’s story stretches well beyond its fishing villages and anchorages, although that maritime history is certainly part of what draws us here.
Back at the marina, there was another bit of maritime history worth checking out: the Western Flyer.
This isn’t just any old boat. The Western Flyer is the famous wooden fishing vessel that carried author John Steinbeck and marine biologist Ed Ricketts on their six-week expedition through the Sea of Cortez in 1940.
Steinbeck is best known for books such as The Grapes of Wrath and Of Mice and Men, but his voyage aboard the Western Flyer inspired a very different kind of work. Steinbeck and Ricketts explored the Gulf of California, collected marine specimens, studied the region’s wildlife, and recorded their observations. Their expedition became the basis for Sea of Cortez: A Leisurely Journal of Travel and Research, published in 1941, and the later The Log from the Sea of Cortez.
The trip was more than a scientific expedition. It combined natural history, adventure, friendship, and Steinbeck’s reflections on the interconnectedness of life. For those of us who spend our days exploring these same waters, there’s something pretty special about knowing that such a celebrated writer once sailed through these islands and anchorages, fascinated by the very things we love about the Sea of Cortez.
The boat itself has had quite a life. Built in 1937 as a sardine seiner, it continued working in the fishing industry long after its famous voyage. After a difficult period that included two sinkings, it was purchased and restored by John Gregg and returned to the waters associated with its most famous journey.
Seeing the Western Flyer in the marina was an unexpected bonus to our stop in Puerto Escondido. It’s a wonderful reminder that boats aren’t just transportation. Sometimes they become part of history.
From Puerto Escondido, we headed to Honeymoon Cove on Isla Danzante. It was our first visit, and the anchorage certainly made an impression.
The water is beautiful, the island is rugged, and the hiking and paddleboarding are excellent. There’s plenty to explore along the shoreline, and the views of the surrounding islands are spectacular.
The anchorage itself, however, is very deep, with limited room to swing. Finding a good spot and making sure we had enough room to move around took a little care. It’s one of those places where the scenery makes you want to stay, but the anchoring conditions remind you that not every beautiful cove is an easy place to park a boat.
Fortunately, we had good company. Lyn and Ty joined us aboard Beluga, and on May 7 we celebrated my birthday together.
Lyn baked a cake, which was a wonderful treat. Birthday cake is always welcome, but somehow it tastes even better when you’ve spent the day surrounded by desert islands and clear blue water.
We also took the dinghies around the island, which turned into one of the most memorable wildlife encounters.
A group of dolphins decided we were worth investigating. And then, apparently, they decided we weren’t moving fast enough.
They seemed determined to get us to speed up so they could play in our bow waves. They would mill around in front of the dinghies, waiting for us to accelerate. As soon as we opened the throttle, they’d dart into the wave and ride it, surfacing and disappearing alongside us. Then they’d circle back and do it all over again.
Over and over, they seemed to be asking for another run. It was as if they’d figured out exactly how to operate a dinghy full of easily entertained humans.
There was even a baby dolphin in the group, which made the encounter all the more special.
We could have spent hours playing with them. It was one of those experiences that reminds us why we love cruising: you can plan a destination, but you can’t plan moments like that.
Between the dolphins, the cake, the beautiful island, and time with good friends, it was one of my more memorable birthdays.
From Honeymoon Cove, we continued north, bouncing from Marquer to Balandra to Coronados to San Juanico and finally to Ramada anchorage on the north side of San Juanico.
Spring in the Sea of Cortez can bring an interesting change in the wind. As the prevailing north winds begin to give way to southerlies, the usual pattern of comfortable anchorages can flip. San Juanico can become rolly when the south wind and swell work their way into the bay, while Ramada, just around the corner on the north side, can remain relatively calm.
That made Ramada a great place to settle in for a while. And we weren’t alone. We ended up with all our favorite buddy boats in the anchorage: Baron and Heather aboard Remedy, Tim on Coconut, Greg on Sweet Dreams, and Lyn and Ty on Beluga.
With that much good company in one place, we knew we were in for a fun couple of weeks.
We spent over two weeks there, diving almost every day, hiking, paddle boarding, and cooking on the beach. Beach cooking has a way of turning an ordinary meal into an event. Everyone brings something, the conversation wanders, and before long we’re all sitting around enjoying dinner with the boats anchored offshore.
The diving was a particular highlight. And between dives, there was always someone ready for a paddle, a hike, or another round of hanging out on the beach.
It’s hard to beat an anchorage where the conditions are comfortable, the water is inviting, and your friends are scattered around you in their own little floating homes.
Ramada gave us exactly that. After the rolling at Los Gatos, it was a welcome change to spend two weeks enjoying the kind of cruising life we dream about: lots of time in the water, meals on the beach, and long stretches of time with people we love.
Our first stretch of spring cruising took us from a rolly anchorage at Los Gatos to the clear teal waters of Agua Verde, on to Puerto Escondido and its unexpected dose of history, then out to Honeymoon Cove for dolphins and a birthday celebration, and finally to Ramada for two weeks of diving and beach life.
Along the way, we met new friends, we caught up with old friends, explored a historic mission, and saw a piece of maritime history up close. We also managed to squeeze in some boat maintenance, because apparently even paradise comes with a to-do list.
This is what we love about cruising the Sea of Cortez. The destinations are beautiful, but it’s the combination of unexpected encounters, changing conditions, and time spent with good friends that makes the journey special.
We’re continuing north for the summer, and if this first stretch is any indication, we’ve got plenty more adventures ahead of us.
Stay tuned for the next chapter aboard Ramble On!
